AW: Schäkel?

Voila: http://www.rockymountainspares.co.uk/?p=51
Das steht auf der homepage. Es wäre nun gut zu erfahren, welche Teile nicht verstanden werden. man muss ja nicht unbedingt "loosen wheel nuts" und solche Dinge mitübersetzen. Zumindest kann ich mir jetzt im Moment nicht die Zeit einer Totalübersetzung nehmen.

Evtl. sollte man vergleichen, ob dieser Text der mitgesendeten Anleitung entspricht, oder ob es noch zusätzliche Infos gibt.


Work on one spring at a time, following this procedure

Loosen wheel nuts – but do not remove
Jack up the chassis of the Land Rover until the wheel lifts off the ground
Remove the wheel
Place a jack stand under the chassis rail and lower the chassis onto the stand
Remove the U-bolts holding the axle to the spring. If you are lucky they will unscrew – failing that, cut the U-bolts
Place the jack under the axle to support the weight of the axle
Remove the bolts holding the spring to the frame and shackles
Check the condition of the chassis bushings. These bushings should be firmly held in the chassis with the centre tube unworn. The shackle plates should have round holes in the ends with no signs of wear or elongation. Shackle bolts should be undamaged and show no signs of wear. The clamp plates under the springs should be perfectly flat with no warps or cracking in the metal. The shock absorber mounting posts should be round and parallel to the surface of the plates. If you are using your old shocks, check that they still offer some resistance when extended by hand. Wire brush and paint usable components
Bolt the new spring into position on the chassis. Do not tighten the bolts completely at this time
Lower the axle onto the spring making sure the dowel on the spring enters the hole in the axle. Lining up the dowel can be difficult. Loosening the U-bolts on the other end of the axle helps
Check that the U-bolts enter the holes in the clamp plate easily. On older models you will need to enlarge these holes a little using a round file
Replace the U-bolts and put the washers and nuts on, but do not tighten much at this stage.

REPLACING THE SHOCK ABSORBERS
Replacing shock absorbers is quite straightforward. It may be difficult to get your old shocks on with the axle unloaded if they are too short!
All shock absorbers are mounted with the shafts pointing upwards. On the Rocky Mountain Explorer 9000 ES shocks and the Old Man Emu shocks both are mounted with the steel protective sleeve uppermost
The mounting points on shocks may require that some ¾ inch (19mm) washers be used to make sure the bushings are a snug fit
Although it is easy with the 109 to differentiate between the front and rear shocks because of the eye at the front and pin at the rear, it is not so easy with the 88 – front and rear both being eyes. Make sure you select the correct 88 front and rear – the front are the shorter ones (18 inch) part no. WO18550

CHECK STRAPS
If you have ordered new shock absorbers from Rocky Mountain, they will be supplied with two new extra length check straps. We do not cut this to an exact length due to variations in shocks, axles and chassis. Cut the straps to appropriate lengths and attach in such a way as to check the drop of the rear axle ½ inch (12mm) before the shock is fully extended. This will prevent the axle dropping down far enough to damage the shock when the axle is at maximum articulation. We are aware there is a school of thought that suggests check straps are redundant – we never attended.

TIGHTENING UP
Once all the springs have been fitted and the Land Rover is standing on its wheels, rock the vehicle back and forth to settle the springs. Find three adults to stand on the front bumper while you tighten all the front shackle bolts to a torque of 70 lb/ft (9.6 kg/m). Repeat with three adults hanging on the rear. After you have tightened all the bolts, tighten the lock nuts to the same torque.

Torque up the U-bolts to 70 lb/ft (9.6 kg/m). THIS IS IMPORTANT! Your springs cannot support the weight of your Land Rover unless they are well clamped to the axle

MAINTENANCE
You can paint your parabolic springs any colour you like and lubricate them with engine oil to stop squeaks and keep rust at bay. U-bolt torque should be checked after the first week and as part of regular maintenance thereafter. Check U-bolt torque more frequently if you drive a lot on rough roads

CAUTION !
Parabolic springs make a great difference to the driving comfort of the vehicle and it is tempting to drive at higher speeds on rough roads than is possible with conventional springs. Bear in mind also that the unladen ride height of your Land Rover will be higher than it was with conventional springs. This increased ride height raises the centre of gravity of the vehicle. For these reasons, you should drive in a conservative manner until you are confident of these new handling characteristics.

AW: Schäkel?

Und dann gibt es noch diese untenstehende Anleitung. Unter Punkt 9 wird darüber berichtet, wie man eine Kollison zwischen (vorderer) Feder und Rahmenholm vermeiden kann.


Rocky Mountain Parabolic Springs Installation

This method is recommended for owners installing their own springs, working on one spring at a time. Those with more facilities may choose to do an axle at a time.
Please read through before starting.

1. Loosen slightly the lug nuts of one wheel, but do not remove.
2. Jack up your Land Rover’s chassis until the wheel is off the ground.
3. Remove the wheel and place an axle stand under the chassis rail, then lower the truck onto the stand.
4. Remove the shock absorber from the lower mounting plate.
5. Remove the nuts holding the ‘U’ bolts to the axle and/or cut the ‘U’ bolts off.
6. Place the jack under the axle to support it.
7. Remove the lock nuts and bolts holding the spring eyes to the frame and shackles, then remove the old spring.
8. Check condition of the chassis bushing, it should be firmly located in the frame. The shackle plates should have unworn round holes, the bolts should not show significant wear. Clamping plate under the spring should be flat and un-cracked. Check that the new ‘U’ bolts pass freely through the clamping plate holes; we use a full ½” dia. thread that may require slight enlarging of the 7/16” holes on some older trucks. The shock absorber mounting post should be round and parallel to the plate surface. Check shock absorber for resistance if they are to be reused. Check that upper axle buffer is in place and serviceable. NOTE* Warranty is void if axle buffers are not in place. Parabolic’s will lose arc if overextended. Any increase in ride height/shackle length must be accompanied by an equivalent downward adjustment to the axel buffer position. Ensure that the rear check straps are in place and serviceable. Clean and paint reusable parts.
9. There can be traces of rubber residue in the spring bushing’s inner 9/16 tube, check the shackle bolt passes through and if not remove residue. The spring eye outer wrap may be tighter at one end than the other, for the front springs install the tightest wrap in the frame mounting horn. This can be important as variations in truck manufacture make some very constricted. If necessary the spring center pin can be loosened and one outer wrap tapped rearward to give a tighter front eye. The upper leaf has a slotted hole for this adjustment.
10. Using the reverse procedure bolt the new spring into place on the chassis without fully tightening up. You may need to raise the axle slightly.
11. Lower the axle onto the new spring making sure the spring center pin is located into the hole in the axle bracket.
12. Install the new ‘U’ bolts and tighten enough to remove slack, do not torque.
13. Remount the shock absorber, and wheel.