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ABS & Zahnkranz: Kosten...

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    ABS & Zahnkranz: Kosten...

    hallo genossen,

    habe mal eine frage:

    Bei meinem Disco waren die ABS, TC & HDC-Leuchten an; bin zu LR gefahren, mit folgendem Ergebnis:

    erstes Mal: Fehler sollte im Sensor Vorne Links liegen (so die Meldung des Bordcomputers); also haben die den Sensor gewechselt, insgesamt Kosten: ca. 340€ plus MwSt.

    dann: Fehler immer noch da.

    zweites Mal: Fehler liegt angeblich am Zahnkranz, dieser wurde gewechselt; Kosten ca. 650€, weil man wohl einen Riesenaufwand (Achse ausbauen etc.) treiben musste, um den zu wechseln.

    Weiterhin habe ich beim ersten Mal auch die Stossdämpfer wechseln lassen, so daß dabei eigentlich auch der Zahnkranz hätte gewechselt werde können, da das sicherlich Kosten gespart hätte.

    Meine Frage an Euch: Sind die Kosten hier zu hoch oder ist das angemessen? Und wenn zu hoch, was mache ich denn da am besten? Anwalt?

    Cheers,
    T.

    #2
    Kosten...

    Hallo zusammen,

    also das Thema "Teile auf Verdacht wechseln " und den Kunden so lange bezahlen lassen bis man den Fehler gefunden hat (oder auch nicht) liegt mir auch schon ewig auf der Seele.
    Hab auch schon diesbezüglich sauere Erfahrungen gemacht.
    Als Architekt würde ich beim Bau keine Reparaturrechnung anweisen (lassen) bei der sich der Erfolg nicht nachweisen lässt.
    Allerdings gibt es nun mal im Kfz-Werkstattbereich üblicherweise keinen Einbehalt, Sicherheitsleistung oder Ähnliches.
    Ist denn kein Rechtskundiger im Forum, der dazu was sagen kann?

    Grüße aus der Oberpfalz

    Ingo

    Kommentar


      #3
      RE: Kosten...

      Hallo,

      den Sensor hab ich auch schon wechseln lassen das hat bei meinem LR Händler ca.280 Euro gekostet. Aber die Preise können die eben selbst auslegen wie Sie wollen, da wirst Du nicht viel tun können.

      Gruß

      Andi

      Kommentar


        #4
        RE: ABS & Zahnkranz: Kosten...

        Hallo
        den Fehler habe ich auch gehabt, es gibt einen Repair Kit kostet so um die 79.- Sfr (schweizer franken). die nummer weiss ich nicht, frag mal beim Landrover Ersatzteillager nach dem " Wechselventilschalter".
        Ist ganz einfach zum auswechseln, das teil befindet sich unten am am ABS block. sollten noch fragen sein kannst mich anmailen. gruss aus zürich

        Kommentar


          #5
          teile auf verdacht wechseln

          tach!
          ich würde mich da mal auf die hinterbeine stellen.
          hatte ähnliches neulich beim ford fiasco meiner freundin: diagnose-computer sagt: lima kaputt. lima gewechselt, nach 5 km fahrt tritt der fehler wieder auf! also wieder hin, die firma "dann isses das steuergerät". also alte lima wieder rein, steuergerät getauscht und siehe da, die sch... geht!!
          gezahlt haben wir dann nix, denn auf dem steuergerät war noch garantie.

          ähnliches haben versch. bekannte bereits bei anderen marken erlebt. also immer mund aufmachen und wehren. "a bisserl was geht immer!".
          hell was full - so I´m back!

          Kommentar


            #6
            Hallo zusammen,

            habe seit kurzer Zeit zum 2ten Mal dieses Phänomen ... ;)

            Das erste Mal vor 2 Jahren. Es wurde ein Sensor ausgewechselt und gut war - bis ... eben vor Kurzem.

            Da ich den Thread mit Aufmerksamkeit gelesen habe und fatlind01`s Rat nachgegangen bin, habe ich folgendes recherchiert.
            Ich denke es hilft uns allen bei der "vielfältigen" Suche nach einer der Fehlerquellen.

            Gefunden auf ... und nun hier zu lesen.
            Visit Edmunds.com Car Forums to discuss car buying, selling, repairs, maintenance and all things automotive! Search discussions by make, model or topic.



            Alle möglichen Ursachen sind aber hier farblich hervorgehoben und in Absätze gegliedert :D Anbei sind Bilder dieses RepairKits


            Excellent article on the ABS problem by John Robison at RoversNorth .....

            Welcome to the techie column for the Fall edition of
            the Rover News. In this column, we’re going to look
            at some of the common problems with the antilock
            brakes on Discovery II models. The Discovery II electronic
            braking system, called SLABS (self leveling anti
            lock braking), is made by Wabco of Germany. Wabco
            is a subsidiary of American Standard, a company better
            known to the public for toilets than brakes. In the
            automotive field, Wabco specializes in braking and
            suspension systems for trucks. According to the company,
            two out of three commercial vehicles with
            advanced braking systems are equipped with Wabco
            products.
            The Land Rover system includes four-wheel
            antilock braking, hill descent control, and four-wheel
            traction control. The SLABS control unit also controls
            the self-leveling suspension, if the vehicle has that feature.
            The Discovery air suspension is also a Wabco
            product. As an aside, Wabco air suspension is also
            found in the new Audi A6 and the Mercedes CLS.

            One of the most common ABS questions I hear is, Why do I see the ABS, Traction Control, and Hill Descent lights coming on?
            All three of those systems share a common set of
            core components.
            The wheel speed sensors, the hubs,
            the modulator, the controller, and other parts serve all
            three systems.
            So a fault in any one of them will cause
            a problem in the other two. It is actually rare to have
            a fault that would only disable one of the three systems.
            99% of the time, if one is affected, they all are.

            To see what’s wrong, you will need to connect a
            Land Rover test system and read the faults. These systems
            are not OBD II compatible, so a generic scanner
            won’t talk to them. At Robison Service, we use the T4
            or Autologic tools for this work.

            The most common faults are wheel speed
            sensor faults.
            The wheel speed sensors in a Land
            Rover are coils that sense the motion of a toothed
            wheel that’s a part of the wheel hub. The rotation of
            the wheel induces a sine wave signal in the sensor
            whose frequency is proportional to the speed, and
            whose amplitude increases with speed from 0.5 volts
            to more than 5 volts.
            If your Rover has a speed sensor fault, there are
            two paths to repair.
            The first is to replace the entire
            hub on the affected corner. This is the approach
            favored by dealers because the toothed wheel – called
            a reluctor ring – and the actual sensor are both part
            of the hub. The reluctor can get damaged by rust or
            corrosion, and it can also get damaged by a bad wheel
            bearing. The only way to service it is to change the
            hub.
            As of this writing, hubs (front-RND646 / rear-RND694)
            cost around $400 and take about three hours to
            change.
            The sensor can be removed from the hub fairly
            easily. If you remove your sensor and look inside you
            should be able to see if the reluctor ring is damaged.
            The reluctor ring can get damaged if the wheel bearing
            gets loose. It can also get damaged by corrosion.
            That’s especially true for Rovers that run on beaches.
            If you see reluctor ring damage, or corrosion, or if the
            hub has any free play at all – you need a complete
            assembly. If there is no damage, you may be able to
            fix the vehicle by changing the sensor (front-RN292 /
            rear-RNH293) alone, a $100 part that’s less than an hour
            to swap.
            The path you choose should be determined by
            examination of the reluctor via the sensor hole.

            If the hub looks good, there’s an “8 or 10” odds that a sensor
            alone will fix your problem.

            Every now and then you will see a Rover that has
            wiring problems, usually at the connector between ABS
            sensor and body. Always pull it apart and look for
            corrosion.

            The next common fault in these systems
            is called shuttle valve failure.

            The shuttle valve is a part of the brake modulator – that big thing in the
            location where a master cylinder would be. The modulator
            incorporates the functions of an ABS servo and
            a brake master cylinder into one unit.
            If you have shuttle valve problems, you will see
            the three warning lights on the dash and there will be
            one or more stored faults for shuttle valve failure.
            Land Rover has a test procedure to determine if these
            faults result from a failure in the modulator or if they
            are caused by wiring troubles in the ABS harness or
            grounds. Unless you have corroded grounds and
            cables, your trouble is probably in the modulator.
            Until now, this problem was addressed by
            replacement of the brake modulator (RNH082). That’s a
            $1,500 part. As you can imagine, shuttle valve failure
            produced a lot of unhappy owners and Land Rover
            finally listened up and developed a fix.
            As of March 2006, Land Rover sells a shuttle
            valve repair kit for under $100. You will have to
            remove the modulator and flip it over to install the
            valves on a workbench. Removal of the modulator,
            replacement of the valve, and refit to the vehicle takes
            three hours or so.
            This shuttle valve repair is a huge improvement
            over the former method of addressing this problem.
            The part number for the repair kit is (SW0500030).
            If you buy it from a dealer you may also want to ask
            for the March 2006 bulletin that gives test and installation
            instructions.

            Another common problem is a mushy
            brake pedal.
            In my experience, the only explanation
            for a mushy pedal is improper bleeding procedure.
            Bleeding a Discovery II takes two people and the Land
            Rover test system, and it takes the two of them a bit
            over half an hour. You need the tester to operate the
            pump and valves to make sure all the air is purged
            from the modulator.
            If you are paying for this service, expect a labor
            bill in the range of one and a half hours and $20-30 of
            brake fluid. If you are not at a dealer, make sure they
            use the correct Castrol LMA fluid. Don’t even start this
            process unless the shop has a tester to run the pump
            and valves. You could bleed brakes in the field without
            one in an emergency, but there is no way to get a
            really good pedal without cycling pump and valves.
            There is no shortcut for this job. You need two
            people and the Land Rover tester.

            We see quite a few stop lamp circuit
            problems.
            The usual way this problem manifests
            itself is a truck that won’t shift out of park.
            Discovery II models have an interlock that prevents shifting out
            of park unless the brake is pressed. So, if the brake
            light circuit fails, the car won’t go into gear.
            If that happens to you, the first step is to check
            the stop lamp fuse. We’ve seen several trucks where
            the stop lamps were fitted wrong, or the contacts corroded,
            and the fuse blew. Also check the trailer connector,
            if your Rover has one. A short there can pop
            fuses.
            If the fuses are good, you should check the stop
            lamp switch. It’s located above the brake pedal. If
            you are stuck somewhere, it is possible to get out of
            park by jumping the switch temporarily with a paper
            clip.

            Finally, you should check your Rover to see.
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