AW: Licht/Verkabelung im Alucab Icarus Hubdach

Sooo, ich habe die Antwort in einem anderen Forum bekommen. Aber da es vielleicht auch hier den ein oder anderen interessiert kopiere ich es nochmal rein.

"I have wired-up my Icarus lights to correctly work with the 10AS. The roof was supplied from the factory and all six lamp units had been connected in parallel with a single connection at the front. The roof installer simply connected this to +/- 12volts and left me to rely on the local switches at the lamps to switch them on /off.
There was an additional problem, as the rearmost unit on the access flap is factory fitted on a spacer of aluminium (as it is positioned on the 'carpet' rather than on a rib) and one of the mounting screws had touched a black wire and shorted this to the metal (0 volts). Normally this wouldn't be a problem but I will later explain why it is.

Land Rover's method for connecting the interior lights in a 110 CSW is that they have a permanent +12V feed to one side of the bulb and then they are controlled by making the circuit on the other side of the bulb, the 0V side. This is done either through the 10AS when the switch at the lamp is in 'DOOR' position or it is connected directly to 0V when the switch is in 'ON'.

The 10AS switches the lamps on when the doors are opened, by monitoring the door pillar switches. It has normally let the switched side of the circuit go to +12V in order to switch the lamps off. When it sees a door open or the key fob is used to unlock the vehicle, then it drives that side of the circuit to 0V and the interior lamps come on. Once you close the doors they stay on for 15 minutes or until you switch on the ignition.

So how do you continue to do this with the Icarus roof? Well you need to wire the lamps in the same way. Feed them with the +12V (purple wire to the +12V side of the lamps) and let the 10AS switch them (purple / white to the 0volts side).

That electrical short on the rear lamp that I mentioned earlier was a pain to diagnose, as it meant that the controlled switching was faulty until I had found and fixed it.

If you want the lamps to have an override ON function (which you do of course when you are camping) then you need an OFF ON ON switch mounted somewhere, so that you can mimic the original switches for OFF / DOOR / ON. I have two Carlng switches at my front dash labelled MAP and INTERIOR. These each have OFF / ON / ON and in that middle position they pick up the 10AS control circuit as explained above. The third position is permanent ON where the circuit connects to 0V through the switch, just as before.

On my install I separated the lower three led units into two circuits. The one at the front (MAP) is on a separate switch to the middle and rear ones (INTERIOR). They all connect to the 10AS in DOOR position but are then on two circuits to put them on in ON position.

The 'upstairs' lamps (one in the ceiling and the two reading lamps) are not connected to the 10AS but go into a rear mounted ON/OFF which is just off a local feed and used as an override.

Personal opinion is that AluCab would do better if they just bring all the lamps out on separate cables and let the installer pick them up as necessary."

AW: Licht/Verkabelung im Alucab Icarus Hubdach

Hallo JustusH,

danke für die Erklärung.
Wie stark darf man eigentlich diesen Anschluss belasten?

Gruß Peter

AW: Licht/Verkabelung im Alucab Icarus Hubdach

Die Originallampen haben zusammen 20W (>1,5A). Da würde ich persönlich nicht drüber gehen, da LR über ca 2,50m Länge nur 0,5mm2 Kabel spendiert hat...

AW: Licht/Verkabelung im Alucab Icarus Hubdach

Danke,

leider erst heute gesehen.

Hätte nämlich vor einen/zwei kleine CPU-Lüfter 50mm als Entlüftung mit dran zu hängen.
Alles Andere der Innenbeleuchtung habe ich schon auf LED umgerüstete.